Yvonne is not only a friend , part of our " Maison en Provence" little team but also a very creative and talented photographer . We sell some of her art , postcards and today I wanted to share few of her images taken in Provence on her last trip .
Yvonne Angyal's photography is about spontaneity, living in the moment and trying to capture something interesting that catches her eye . She believes that aiming for balance, interesting colors and shapes make up for beautiful compositions. http://www.yaphotos.net/blogger-feed
Provence in the fall can really be a beautiful time to visit . If you lock in a perfect week without the treacherous Mistral or any rain you can experience all the golden light in the trees and vines , the leaves changing color and some balmy temperatures .
Not that I am a chauvinist when it comes to our area in Provence but I will say it again : it is more untouched , not as famously touristic and so worth exploring the northern part of Provence ! There is no hip restaurants or shops but there is no tourist trap /Disneyland of Provence either ...it is the true land , its culture, produce and people ...and yes it is remote but that's what I like about it . It's real farmland , olive groves and cherry trees , vineyards , sheep or goats grazing on a hillside , a tractor going by on a Sunday afternoon and no chic Parisian with high hills and perfect manicure to be seen ! It can be a very harsh environment but this week happened to just be perfect . As I am meeting my potter and other craftsman making some real treasure soon to be in our shop , I took the tiny windy roads detours so I could share some beautiful fall scenery with you and maybe make you want to check out the Drome Provencale ...
Tulette , Pascal's home town . Nothing special about it but I love the little Cooperative where I can find all local products under one roof , specially the most delicious sheep milk "cailles" much lighter than yogurt non acidic and the only thing I'll eat for dessert all week !
Far in the back ground : The Mont Ventoux nice and clear . There is no rain in the forecast or it would wear a hat of clouds .
Plane trees growing sideways because of the Mistral
Nyons is a cute little town very well known for its olive oil . The olives are very specific and only grow here ...not very meaty , with a big pit but they make a very fruity olive oil that is our favorite !
Le Col de Valouse is the most narrow road ever ...it goes from Saint Ferreol Trente Pas to Dieulefit . I stop for lunch at the only restaurant but found it totally booked for a private party . Good thing I have plan B : a picnic emergency basket . My mum and I are back on the road looking for that perfect spot .....Below is the view from the restaurant .
We back track a little and take the Gorges de Trente Pas ...
...and found the perfect picnic spot with an incredible view !
The lavender fields have been trimmed down already but this area is so beautiful in summer too !
What else can we ask for ?? A fresh baguette , some saussison , my favorite sheep cheese and a caillette ( a specialty from Provence made with spinach , herbs and a little grounded "mystery meat " ...I'll leave it like that or I'll scare you ! )
Fresh Chouquettes that we stuffed with some chocolate pot de creme and topped with fresh raspberries . It does not get better than that !
Goats in the back ground
Down the hill : Bouviere where we stop for a coffee in the other restaurant that got fully booked today ...some other people know the good spots of the back country ! From there you could keep going north to Bourdeaux and Dieulefit or make it shorter like we did going back down to Gumiane , Arnaillon, Villeperdrix and back to Nyons .
On the hillside of Nyons is where my cousins have their Olive groves . I am stopping to pick up some goodies and say hello.
It's been so dry and hot this year again that the harvest will start mid November instead of late December /January . The olives are starting to drop so it is time ....
Beautiful view from the patio . Nyons nickname is "Le Petit Nice" referring to the mild climate of the French Riviera ...and is spared by the Mistral most of the time ...Palm trees grow in Nyons !
Not only their olives are totally organic but all the food my cousins eat is home grown in their large vegetable garden !
Every country has their own tradition when it comes to the Day of the dead . In Mexico there are big celebrations and in France even though now days kids dress up and trick or treat too , the tradition is to remember your loved ones who have passed and bring them flowers ...not any kind of flowers but Chrysanthemums . We picked some at the farmer's market to bring to my family and Pascal's family's grave.
My mum's back yard
Japanese Cosmos Flowers are in bloom right now !
My mum enjoying some nice weather in her back yard jungle ...
Today is a rainy day so I planned a special cooking class at my aunt .
I've asked my aunt to teach me how to make "Pieds Paquets" translate as "feet and Bags". It is a very old traditional recipe in Provence and one of my favorite but nobody makes them anymore and what you find at the butcher is never quiet as good as what I remember my aunt making . So today is a special day as my cousin Francoise and I will get a hand's on class ! The recipe start like that : " les pieds paquets de Meme Lucienne / the feet and paquets from grandma Lucienne ( who was my aunt's mother ) . You will need time and patience and also make some for at least 10 people ! We are on for a challenge for sure ...but we have all afternoon !
All you need is : a dozen lambs feet , grounded "farce fine " a fine grounded meat stuffing , salted pork belly , 8 lambs stomachs , garlic and parsley ...Good thing is the butcher supply us with clean , already blanched parts. We'll wash and clean them again but there's no smell :)
No gadgets , no ceramic knifes ...we use the same cooking tools as Meme Lucienne did !
Lots of garlic and parsley to mix in with the stuffing as well as some of the cuts from the lamb stomach that we ground . This is the secret that will make the stuffing smooth and not hard ...
The hardest part ! Figure out how to cut a stomach pouch into something that we can stuff, roll up , that won't come undone while cooking without using tread or picks ....we'll cheat and attached a few like tiny little "rotis" and manage to make 50 bags ...enough for 10 people ! While we are struggling with our bagging ....our home made sauce is slowly simmering : a fragrant mix of onions, pork belly cubed , tomatoes, bouquet garni , leeks and carrots . We lay some pork "couenne" or pork skin at the bottom of the pot , the 12 feet on top, our paquets and top off with our broth ....it will then cook for a good 3 hours .....and we'll have to wait until the next day to savor our work !
Our stew will cook an other 3 hours before we can taste it....but this was so worth it ! There were just like I remembered : soft , tender , melting in your mouth little bundles of flavor and the feet just falling off the bone with a sweet gelatinous texture so gooeyly delicious !
A ray of sunshine after the rain on my childhood playground
From my aunt's house you can see way far in the back ground Saint Roman de Malegarde ...a village of some 100 people where Pascal and I leaved for 10 years before we moved to San Diego
Back yard fall magic ...makes everything look beautiful !
Today , I am on the road again , an hour and a half away and a speeding ticket later ( can't go to France an not get your speeding ticket .....) I reach the famous Luberon area ! I stop for lunch in Cucuron , drive by Bonnieux, Menerbes ...
The village of Lacoste
Some of the treasures that will be in our shop soon ....the original lavender sachet is still being made here in Provence ! I grew up weaving lavender wands when the lavender is fresh and you can bend the stems to enclose the flowers . I would sell them at my parent's gas station every summers when I was not picking up melons , peaches or apricots ! It takes for ever to make one but the scent will stay inclosed for years . Gently press the wand to release the best lavender scent !
Late April is a bit too early but this year I had some pretty nice weather and could enjoy my mum's amazing wisteria , Lilac , iris and lily of the valley .
First trial run with the walker ...we are off to the marche ! My mum is still very skinny but I plan to put some fat on her body this time and do some cooking as always !
These were the cutest pet pigs !
The white wisteria on the "place de la mairie" main square .
I am making Pascal's grand mother's baby goat stew recipe ...a family tradition in the spring . I know my brother in law will appreciate as he too grew up with this .
I gave the recipe in a blog post in Provence a couple of years ago ...you can make this recipe with veal as it has a mild flavor as well . Now it has to simmer for an hour or more before I can finish the sauce with an egg yolk and cream just before to serve ....
My County in the Cote du Rhone area use to be just vine fields and wineries everywhere but the big wine crisis changed the landscape . When the price of French wines dropped drastically a lot of small wine makers saw their income slashed again and again .... a lot of them had to find a way to make ends meet . This one decided to change career . He and his wife removed all the vines and planted grass to feed some cheeps , trained for a year and are now making cheep's milk cheeses and "yogurts" my ultimate favorites. They are called "caille" and they do not use the same starter as a culture . It makes the yogurt very mild with zero acidity and extremely light like a fluffy milk . I could not find it anywhere but in Biarritz near Spain but now I can buy these at the market or at the farm for 0.60E each . Top with some crunchy sugar and a bit of whipping cream !
Le "Chateau de Rochegude" a Relais and Chateaux hotel and restaurant just a few miles from my home town is a great place to stay in Provence , hidden in a quaint little village , quiet and close to everything at the same time . Perfect to explore the northern part of Provence , the Drome Provencale that I love so much . Less tourists and beautiful landscapes !
They are hosting a vintage car gathering today , the occasion for me to see some friends who have come from all over the south .
Today we are celebrating my mum's cousin 100th Birthday ! She is still living in her home with the help of her daughters . I get to see my entire family this time and enjoy some fabulous Choux a la creme !
Mum making my favorites : Vietnamese fried rolls ....nobody makes them better than her ! Eat with lettuce , mint , fish sauce and rice.
Bringing back some very special souvenirs ; 3 vases in raku that my mum made
Now back in San Diego , I get to practice my Ikebana and make some flowers arrangements in those special vases !
I had not been in Lyon for over 25 years but this year I will lay over on my way to Provence ... I have been dreaming about a REAL Quenelle de Lyon for way too long !
Many world famous chefs , 3 stars Michelin Restaurants , Paul Bocuse school ...but I am not after some fancy food in a high end decor but old fashion Lyon rustic food !
First I am renting a "Velove " ( the response to the "Velibre" in Paris ) to get around this not so big city ....plus I know I will need to burn some calories today ! To get into an appetite ...nothing like going to the market : The famous covered "Halles Bocuse "
My favorite cheese ...never seen in the US : a creamy Saint Felicien
How about a cheese shaped like France !
Escargots ready to go...
Pate en croute with black truffles
Famous chicken from Bresse, Guinea fowl , pigeons ...
Specialty Quenelles : with squid ink , fish or crayfish . Now I am shopping and taking some home ! I have tried to make some quenelles here in San Diego from scratch without any success and cannot wait to get my hands on these delicate "dumplings" . When you cook them in a creamy white sauce "nantua" ( with more crayfish ) they fluff like a small souffle !
The cheese stand was amazing but the charcuterie stand is not shabby either ! Do not mix saussisson sec and saussisson de Lyon: one is a dry salami , the other is fresh like a large sausage . This is what I came for too .
I guess everything is good with truffles but I will stick to the classic pistachio . Just simmer the saussisson slowly for 45mns and serve with steamed potatoes ...
Bulots are some of my favorites too...a sea snail delicious with some aioli .
A few Bulots and Oursins will do it as an appetizer today . The sea urchins are from Bretagne and despite being smaller than our local San Diegan monsters , they have a very similar delicate and flowery flavor ...eat French style with a good fresh baguette and sweet butter to mop the shell !
I cannot help drool just looking at the pastries ...
Time for lunch ! Chez Paul ...
In Lyon we do not call these Bistro or Cafe but Bouchon ... it all about meat , heavy , creamy delicious rustic food !
It's about the food but also a convivial atmosphere , sharing your table with other guests ...talking to the owner . At "Chez Paul" they serve the appetizers family style ...you pass around big salad bowls with head pate , beat salad , lentils salad, more cured meat and more pate ....I am pacing myself ... Next is my piece de resistance : Blood sausage with mash potato and apple puree ....French blood sausages are not like any I've had made by German or here in the US ....they are the creamiest texture , sweet mild flavor and crunchy outside ...a must try next time you are in France !
I take a bite of the saussisson de Lyon ....miss the pistachios and move to the cheese platter , then "fromage frais" a very fresh goat cheese served with fresh herbs , cannot resist having seconds of "faisselle" a fresh cottage cheese like but much more smooth and light topped with a big ladle of creme fraiche before it is desert : a large platter of Creme caramel ( custard flan in caramel sauce ) , a couple of plums cooked in red wine to help digest and I am done ! 25 Euros for the menu ...I am full !
Place des Terreaux square is classified as Worl Heritage site by Unesco . It is in the center of Lyon on the Presqu'ile in between the 2 rivers : The Rhone and the Saone L'Hotel de Ville ( Lyon main city hall ) built in 1672
In the former benedictine convent is the Musee des Beaux Arts
L'eglise Saint Bonaventure
On top of the hill stand the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere looking more like a fortress than a cathedral . It took 24 years to built and was only finished in 1884 .
You should walk and wonder in the streets of the Vieux Lyon well known for its Renaissance architecture , but I only have one day so I am back on my bike ...
Cannot be in Lyon and not stop at Francois Pralus . His famous Praluline created by his father celebrate its 60th anniversary this year . It is a "simple" brioche mixed with a lot and I mean a lot of pralines !!
Not that I am already hungry ...but I step inside to buy THE famous Praluline . I am told that they are sold out but a new batch fresh from the oven is coming out in 15mns ...and I should stay to wait inline ...but I need to lock my bike so by the time I step out , lock my Velove ...the line is out the door already and by the time I make it back inside ...there are just a few Praluline left ! This is a highly coveted brioche and totally worth the fight I can tell you that now !
The brasserie Georges, an institution near the Gare Perrache ; the place you go in a hurry before to catch a train or to savor a classic choucroute garnie on a late night...I plan to come back for desert tonight . I want an Omelette Norvegienne flambee table side tonight ! So few restaurants still serve this incredible dessert ...
The new Quartier de la Confluence with its hip restaurants and shops
My bike for the day with all my goodies from the market
Traditional house boat along the Saone river . This previously industrial area is being rehabilitated now so people can enjoy the river banks.
What a contrast with the old boats !
The Saone on the left , The Rhone on the right and in the middle the brand new Musee des confluences looking like a floating crystal cloud of steel and glass .
The confluence where the 2 rivers become one .
All this biking around the city all day helped me work an appetite again ! I've heard of this bouchon hidden in a tiny street ... One last feast of creamy goodness before to get back to my Mediterranean diet of Olive oil and tomatoes tomorrow .
Advertising their "Famous Quenelle " ...this is it !
Love the quaint authentic decor !
I am sharing this meal with my cousin's daughter Amandine and her boyfriend Cedric.
First some of the most delicious foie gras on a frisee salad .
A dream come true ! This is THE quenelle de Lyon at its perfection !
Sweet breads in a morel cream sauce , crispy and creamy on the inside
And a Baba au Rhum to top it off ! I have not forgotten about the Omelette Norvegienne but there is no way I can eat anything else right now !!! The most incredible thing is that I will digest like a charm everything I ate today ...when I can have such a stomach ache eating nothing special in San Diego . I am not sure what it is but there is something about the food in France that not only taste better but process better . Tomorrow I head down to Provence by train with a cool bag full of more great Lyon food to cook at home . My Mediterranean diet will wait a few more days !
I have to share these photos of my family in Provence in the village of Nyons ....where the famous olive oil is produced . My cousins Alain and Regine own and operate the family olive farm just like in the old days ( It is the 6th generation and they make the most delicious organic first cold pressed olive oil I know ). Yes it is Christmas and it is also the season to pick up the olives . The day after Christmas everybody is giving them a hand !
My little cousin Lou-Anne
My cousin Regine
Processing all the olives by hand as always .
Nyons is a cute little town in "Drome Provencale" the northern part of Provence at the foothills of the lavender fields ( we get our lavender oil from there ) . The olives are legendary and driving east and north of Nyons is just marvelous ... our very favorite area to go to ...unspoiled tiny roads and villages . ..worth exploring if you go to Provence !
If you go to Provence in the fall on a sunny week it can really be beautiful . Vines and cherry trees are turning red ... temperatures can still be around 68-70F ...you just have to take a chance in between end of October and early November ( before it is not quiet red and later all the leaves may be gone after just one storm and some Mistral to finish it off ) This year we got lucky ; no Mistral , no rain just a beautiful fall week in Provence ! It has been raining everyday ever since we left !!!
Yes there are some animal crossing here too ... maybe more wild boars than deers !
Halloween is getting more and more popular in France . We had a good bunch of scary kids asking for candies . Lucky them we had brought some Reese's shaped like pumpkins :)
Packing up some pottery ....
....That is now in the shop !